
The time was 1956, four years since Egypt came under the military control of Colonel Nasser, with angry exchanges growing stronger between him and England's Prime Minister Anthony Eden, and others. My adorably nutty young husband, James Abbott, decided to sell the country garage he'd bought just to service his racing car, and get the hell off to Australia where he'd spent his teenage years in glorious freedom from public schools. It sold in the nick of time, just before the oil crisis, petrol rationing and the Middle East political time bomb in the making.
His other brilliant idea was to book us on a tiny British-India cargo ship, with our new scarlet Jaguar XK120 in the hold and our precious Afghan Hound, Miss Julie (both on the left with the young Mrs. Maggie Abbott) in a large cage tied down on a covered deck. We'd already shipped our other two equally well-bred Afghans, Jo and Moti, to Australia so they could be out of quarantine when we arrived. For good measure, just in case, James tucked a shotgun with a supply of ammo into a suitcase. Nobody inspected luggage in those days.
Well, who knew, as they say. After dawdling along via stops for cargo in Marseilles and Genoa, we arrived in the Mediterranean sea at the entrance to the Suez Canal just in time for imminent outbreak of War, and at first denied entry, being British and the enemy. We bobbed around for a couple of days whilst the ship's captain negotiated and eventually our little ship, which was too small to navigate the alternative route, around the whole of Africa via the Cape of Good Hope in the South, also dealing with a slight list from an imbalance in the cargo hold, was allowed to join the single-file convoy traveling down the Suez Canal on condition that we were under 'boat arrest' with armed Egyptian soldiers on guard all over the ship. They were quite nice and friendly, except for a moment when one of them admired Miss Julie too closely through the bars of her cage and almost lost his finger. There were only 12 civilian passengers on the ship, mostly older folk who stayed in their cabins, but James and I waved cheerily to the less friendly populace on the banks of the Canal, who jeered us on, shouting out things we were happy not to understand. It was exciting, once we got through the Canal, to know we were passing Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Sudan, Eritrea, Somalia. A fascinating area of our world we know mostly for the wrong reasons.
It was an extraordinary experience. We stopped for fuel, watching those huge pipes on floats placed around us, pumping away, followed by a sojourn in the Red Sea when we swapped places with the convoy of ships traveling north into the Canal, climbing shipside down ladders for a swim. I was dead scared down there looking up at the ship, but the water was really buoyant and we could see Egyptian soldiers doing the same thing nearby. It was surreal.
What was utterly real was the sound of explosions which started the day we left the Red Sea and entered the Indian Ocean. The area where we'd been sailing in our little "Chandara" was now being heavily bombed. That drama was over for us, but it was a political and historical disaster for many others, especially those Egyptian people who had to suffer Fifty-Five more hard years of a military dictatorship until this week!